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The role of a physician

The goal of acne therapy is to get rid of existing lesions and prevent the formation of new ones. Most treatments resolve existing acne lesions and, with continuous use, discourage new ones from forming.

Acne is treated by interfering with the way acne develops. Acne occurs when androgen hormones cause sebaceous glands to grow and produce more sebum. In concert with this change, there are changes in the skin lining the hair follicle to which sebaceous glands are attached. The skin cells of the follicle lining shed more quickly, in clumps, and are sticky. These cells and increased sebum output are likely to cause clogged pores that can become comedones. Finally, a kind of bacteria, P. acnes, which is a normal resident on the skin, invades the clogged follicle and begins to multiply rapidly. The result is acne in all its forms.

Given the way acne occurs, acne treatments do one or more of the following:

Sometimes, two or more acne products are used to treat different acne causes. Check with your dermatologist or pharmacist before you combine acne products. This section will outline the various treatment options for acne.

The role of the dermatologist

Just about every case of acne can be cleared up, but sometimes it takes a dermatologist's help. Moreover, there is absolutely no reason why acne should get so bad or last so long as to cause scars--not with the products available today.

Should YOU see a dermatologist for your acne? To answer this question, take an honest look at your acne and its effect on your life. If any of the following apply, make an appointment:

  • You are dissatisfied with the results you have gotten from nonprescription acne products
  • Your acne is interfering with your enjoyment of life
  • You have acne scars in addition to acne lesions
  • You have large, painful acne bumps
  • You are dark skinned and acne is causing dark patches to appear

Basic guidelines for treating acne

Regardless of the treatment you're using, you should follow the following guidelines unless your dermatologist instructs you otherwise:

1. Do NOT pop, squeeze or pick at acne. This can make acne worse by spreading inflammation. Comedones should be removed only by an experienced health professional. With appropriate treatment, acne should go away without squeezing.

2. Gently wash your face twice a day with a mild soap and pat dry. Vigorous washing and scrubbing can irritate your skin and make acne worse. It will not clear up acne on its own--the acne needs to be treated with appropriate acne products.

3. Use "noncomedogenic" cosmetics and toiletries.

4. Avoid things that can aggravate your acne, such as oils, airborne grease, irritating clothing or sporting equipment, and so on.

5. Give the acne products enough time to do their job. Ask a dermatologist or pharmacist for more information about how long a particular product needs before the acne begins to clear up.

6. Some acne products can increase the skin's sensitivity to sunlight and ultraviolet light from tanning booths. Use protective clothing and sunscreens and avoid tanning booths (which are probably good ideas in any case).

Remember, see a dermatologist if you are not satisfied with the results you get from your acne treatments.

Nonprescription products

Cleansers. There are many cleansers, soaps, washes and so on advertised for acne. Most special cleansers are unnecessary if the acne is being treated properly otherwise. Some may even aggravate acne. Be careful that vigorous scrubbing and washing does not irritate the skin.

Ketsugo. Ketsugo eliminates the cause of shiny skin, open pores, blackheads, whiteheads, pimples and acne by gently reducing the skin's overproduction of oil. It keeps pores free from clogging, even under make-up. A smoother, cinarer complexion can be seen within weeks. Isolutrol, a revolutionary compound extracted from shark liver which has the amazing ability to regulate excessively oily skin.

Benzoyl peroxide. Benzoyl peroxide works by destroying the bacteria associated with acne, P. acnes. It usually takes about 2 weeks to work and it must be used continuously to keep acne at bay until you outgrow getting acne. This is because it does not affect sebum production or the way the skin follicle cells are shed, and when you stop using it, the acne comes back. It is available in a wide range of vehicles: creams, lotions, gels. It often works quite well for milder cases of acne.

Salicylic acid. On the skin, salicylic acid helps to correct the abnormal shedding of cells. For milder acne, salicylic acid helps unclog pores to resolve and prevent lesions. It does not have any effect on sebum production or P. acnes, It must be used continuously, just like benzoyl peroxide, since its effects stop when you stop using it--pores clog up again and the acne returns. Salicylic acid is available in many acne products, including lotions, creams and pads. 

Prescription products

Because prescription drugs must be ordered by a dermatologist, your own dermatologist is the best source of information about specific products and the treatment of your acne.

Antibiotics. Antibiotics may be used on top of the skin (topical) or taken orally (systemic). Antibiotics work by clearing the skin of P. acnes, There are several topical products available in creams, gels, pads and lotions. Topical antibiotics are limited in their ability to penetrate the skin and clear more deep-seated P. acnes, whereas systemic antibiotics circulate throughout the body and into sebaceous glands. Systemic antibiotics, therefore, often cause more side effects than topicals, but they can be used for more severe kinds of acne.

Antibiotics do not address the other causative factors in acne and may take several weeks or months to clear up acne. Antibiotics are usually used in combination with other drugs that "unclog" follicles. Orally taken (systemic) antibiotics for acne should not be used during pregnancy, and some may reduce the effectiveness of oral contraception pills, risking a pregnancy during treatment. Be sure you get all the facts about any antibiotic your dermatologist prescribes.

Vitamin A derivatives. Vitamin A derivatives, called "retinoids," have numerous effects on the skin. Other drugs that work like vitamin A have similar effects. Topical retinoid preparations help unclog pores to clear up moderate-to-severe acne by normalizing the way the skin grows and sheds. They can be used in combination with other acne products, such as benzoyl peroxide, and oral antibiotics. However, the dermatologist's instructions should be carefully followed.

An oral retinoid is available that reduces sebum output, improves the shedding of skin and reduces the P. acnes population of the skin--the only medication that intervenes in all the causes of acne. It will often clear severe nodular acne, even if the acne has not responded to other treatments. This product can have long lasting results, but it can also cause significant side effects in some people. In addition, it has been shown to cause birth defects if taken during pregnancy. A course of treatment completed in the past has no effect on future pregnancies, but the drug should not be used by a women who believes she may become pregnant during treatment. A person taking this drug should carefully follow the dermatologist's direction.

Oral contraceptives. Oral contraceptives, being female hormones, help to counteract the effect of male hormones (androgens) on acne. Because they are female hormones, however, their use is limited to female patients. It should be pointed out that the use of some systemic antibiotics, which should not be used during pregnancy, may reduce the effectiveness of oral contraceptives as birth control. Oral contraceptives contain combinations of hormones, and some combinations are more effective than others in clearing acne. The maximum benefit of oral contraceptives on acne occurs in 3 to 4 months.

Other medications. Anti-inflammatory medications called corticosteroids may be injected by a dermatologist directly into severe inflamed acne lesions to help heal the lesions.

A dermatologist is the best source of information as to which one is right for an individual case of acne. 

Other treatments

Other treatment methods. A dermatologist may use a variety of in-office procedures to remove severe lesions and to express (push out the contents of) comedones. A skilled physician is the best one to remove acne lesions and pimples--a non-expert risks spreading inflammation, making acne worse and increasing the risk of scarring.

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